![]() Per Se has 4.5 stars, but so does Cheesecake Factory. Yelp has a star system, but there's no standardization. Instagrams tend to be fanatical and food porny (like flies, it’s easier to attract “Likes“ with oozing honey rather than vinegar). There may be more voices, but that doesn’t mean there’s more criticism.After all, one man's bong water is another man's ambrosia. Where's the line between too salty and well-seasoned? Aloof and respectful of your space? “ Limp and dispirited" and elegantly draped? The decision comes down to perspective, a plate through the lens of personal experience. But what is a review except for a written declaration of bias? There are clear fails (a hair in your soup, a delayed dish), but the rest is pretty subjective. Does he have an ax to grind? Is she cozy with the chef? Why such spiteful language? Whether he likes it or not, a critic reveals more than the meal in his writing.Ī naïf might assume reviewers are objective and fair, that they come to the table with no biases. People treat reviews like literature or Supreme Court rulings, reading between the lines. Critics are not normal journalists, so it’s easy (and fun) to theorize on their motivations.And when a four-star restaurant is stripped of half its stars, that’s the stuff of scandal. We track where chefs are headed, what places are shuttering, the debut of a chicken sandwich/veggie burger/bone broth menu. In certain cities, among certain circles, restaurant blogs are like sports pages and reservations are courtside seats. Restaurant happenings are deliciously dynamic and gossipy. ![]() We’re fascinated by critics-their power, their disguises, their company credit card-and, if we’re being honest, we probably want to be them. Let's be real, though critics insist eating for a living is a tough gig, it sure beats the antiseptic office jobs most of us have. They travel the world, savoring the world's most extraordinary cuisine. ![]() Of the hundreds of thousands of people who have posted about the #cronut, how many have followed Dominique Ansel's recipe and spent the three days to make it? My guess: next to none.īut critics! Those professional eaters: Anthony Bourdain, Andrew Zimmern, Gail Simmons, Jonathan Gold, Ruth Reichl, Kate Krader. When people eat for sport, their idols aren’t really chefs.
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